after_alex

Never have I seen development to the scale of such absurdity before. Dubai, today in Jan 2008, is Money.

Singapore built Raffles Hotel at the Wafi Center

Over the New Year holiday, I flew out to Dubai with Victoria who came out to meet me from Los Angeles. I wanted to show her some of the Arab world had to show for, the glitz, the glamour, and the endless extravagance just waiting for your indulgence. For those of you who doubt the powers of fast money in the Middle East, be doubtful no more. Dubai is only one example of how economic growth and prosperity has quickly modernized a world outside your conventional frame of reference. This city has really only come of age in less than a decade, and already it’s fighting to become the region’s financial and trade hub. Do not underestimate the influence of petrodollars invested wisely. Eventually, it won’t just be Dubai Ports World buying out your local port, but it will be other symbols of Middle East that come buying out your whole town.

The Burj Dubai, UAE’s tallest building is still under construction.

Because of doubt, self-preoccupation, and a variety of other forces the average American has no idea what’s happening on the other side of the world. Dubai, in particular, has benefited largely from the discovery of oil and gas resources years ago and has exploited opportunities to diversify itself into a global commercial powerhouse. Where is Dubai? On the Arabian Peninsula, along the Persian Gulf. Slowly, people in the “civilized” Western world have come to realize that Dubai is one hell of a place. From Naomi Campbell to DJ Carl Cox, the place is coming onto the world scene. But not like you care anyway. It’s just another place somewhere out there that has no bearing on your life…yet.

Ever seen a McArabia sandwich?

For now, UAE’s Dubai is making its name with world records. The world’s largest mall, world’s largest man-made island chain, first ski resort in the desert, etc. You wonder how they can bring to life such machinations. In the meantime, it took lots of money (of course) as well as lots of foreign labor and technical expertise. Thus, Dubai has had no choice but to become a multi-cultural, intelligent, and relatively liberal city. With all of its global influences I’d guess that this is the most cosmopolitan city in the region.

Burj Al Arab – the only 7-star hotel in the world.

Yes, even an artificial ski resort in the desert.

Extravagance is the name of the game here. I liken it to the materialism of Los Angeles, mixed with the artificial veneer of Las Vegas… all made possible by Arab oil money and the restlessness of extreme wealth.

Buy a house at The World Dubai, but you need a boat just to get to that house.

I’d recommend a trip out to Dubai if you’re ever in the region, although it’s a little expensive. Because of the recent breakneck development, limited development space, and exchange rate rigidities Dubai has become an expensive place. It wasn’t always this way (I remember things being much more affordable only 2 yrs ago), but it is what is…come find out this place for yourself!

Not to get cheesy on you, but here’s a letter I wrote home today —

Hi,

Working here is quite busy – 6 or 7 days/week. But security is good, concrete barriers, armored cars.

I am sleeping well, but at the sacrifice of doing many other things. But I have been learning Dari (Afghan version of Farsi – which is Iran’s language). I can now read and write Dari!!

Also, yesterday was the Marine Corps Birthday, and so I celebrated with some Marines and colleagues at a local Italian restaurant called “Boccacio.” The restaurant is owned by a Bosnian man who hires Russian women to run it. The dinner was quite touching; everyone gave a toast, and I did one for the Marines’ service in Vietnam. Some of my colleagues are former Marines who served in Vietnam, but they will never talk about it.

Celebrating the 229th birthday of the Marine Corps.

Today is Veteran’s Day, and that will be celebrated here at the Embassies as well. For Canada and some other countries it’s known as “Remembrance Day” – but it’s a little ironic that we have to come all the way out here to even notice the meanings of these holidays. One of our head security guys yesterday gave a toast to the Commander in Chief – President Bush, but of course that was hard for me (and many others) to swallow. But I’m actually not finding many die hard Republicans here. It’s very different from Orange County. And yes, it’s hard to find supporters for the war in Iraq. Afghanistan, however, is a different story. Nevertheless, I am officially under the aegis of the US Government now, so I will keep my comments about the Commander to a minimum.

There was a speech yesterday by one of the Marines who said, “Some people have the problem of going to sleep at night wondering what their impact on the world is. Marines don’t have that problem.” In some ways we’re all on the front lines here. But thank God I’m not in combat, and thank God we have the sacrifice of our people – those who have chosen their military duty.

From the Compound of the USAID Capacity Development Program,

Alex
Kabul, Afghanistan
Veterans Day – Nov 11, 2007

Man, everyone is talking about Dell’s battery recall. NY Times, my girlfriend, Ray, even the smelly people next to me here in the San Francisco Public Library are talking about Dell battery recalls.

And it’s about time Dell did something about this. I knew my battery was just too hot. It almost hurt my leg to watch a DVD with this computer on my lap. And to think I was even thinking about upgrading to a faster hard drive. That would have just about fried my leg-skin like KFC thighs.

Apparently Irvine is not as crime-free as you thought.

A 10 year old Egyptian girl was brought to Irvine, California and enslaved for almost two years by a middle age couple living. Yes this is your your backyard – Irvine, California.

Irvine may not be Oakland, but there sure is some fucked up stuff always brewing up in that uber-model of all suburbs. Are you still deceived?

Social theorists (especially the Leftist ones) like to talk about cultural hegemony. Marx, Gramsci, and others swimming in the circle red ideology point fingers at the Man, at government, and at the good ol’ capitalist for enforcing his greedy will upon the world’s hapless peoples.

So it ocurred to me, and probably to you, actually…it reminded me that standardized tests are quite possibly a very strong force of social conformity to a particular set (or sets) of behaviors and ideologies. How did this dawn on me? Well it’s not like it’s totally hidden. I’ve just been studying for the GRE these past few days, and I can already feel myself changing (or I’ve already changed) into the person that ETS wants me to be.

Yes, I’m sure you’ve observed it yourself. Study those SAT words..that’s right. Pick up that ol’ Ivy vocubulary. If you’re lucky enough you’ll know how exactly to use it – or how not to use it – because maybe…just maybe the Man in your future, your boss, job interviewer, or college admission representative, knows that you studied those flashcards and will allow you into the gates of the privileged. Or as some would like to call it, the “educated.” But maybe if you make it too obvious that you picked up those words by flashcard, and that you aren’t truly a rapacious student of high learning, that Man in front of you will smugly and contently close the door of “opportunity” to you.

But that’s life. Every circle of influence has it’s glass ceiling, and maybe the biggest circle is that of higher education. Anyway, these days, as I ponder my own guilty socialization into the world of the “educated,” I continue to admire those who give straight-trodden path the middle Finger. “Nice” is what I think to myself when I’m reminded of the world’s most content and self-defined examples of success. They could be gold-teethed rappers who didn’t graduate high school, or doctors with fake medical licenses. College students-turned-hippies or self-made millionaires. Mother Teresa or Kim Jong Il. As I laugh with them and at them, I realize to myself. Wait a minute, I AM the Man. Haha just kidding. Or…wait long enough and we’ll see.

See you on the other side of the glass ceiling….or floor -Lates…

…which side will YOU be on?